This week, 15 Asian countries — including China and other big exporters of apparel and textiles — signed the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) agreement, a feat which led upbeat politicians to declare the arrival of a new world order. Though the appraisal is both premature and hyperbolic, the pact does provide a glimmer of hope for business leaders in need of a more stable environment to conduct trade.
In a year which has seen the pandemic crush the profits of many fashion brands, the prospect of a more integrated supply chain within the RCEP trading bloc — hailed as the largest in the world by some measures — is a relatively small but significant positive sign for brands fighting for survival.
Notwithstanding concerns for environmental protections and labour rights, the agreement should make doing business easier and cut tariffs on the growing proportion of textiles exported from China to garment manufacturers in Southeast Asia, where a growing number of fashion brands from the US and Europe do their sourcing. Major players like H&M and Uniqlo might even feel compelled to re-evaluate where they manufacture and reconsider suppliers in non-RCEP countries like India and Bangladesh, which are now at a disadvantage.
Though it remains unclear what US president-elect Joe Biden’s views are on RCEP or the CPTPP (the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership, which was formed after Donald Trump withdrew from its forerunner bloc a few years ago), Biden’s constructive rules-based stance is clear enough: “I’m not looking for punitive trade,” he said, just days after RCEP was formed. The US is not part of either bloc.
For American brands like Everlane and Levi’s that have been troubled by Trump’s pursuit of increased tariffs in the protracted US-China trade war, and for French luxury giants LVMH and Kering, which will be concerned about higher tariffs imposed by Trump that are due to take effect in January 2021, there is an urgent need for Biden to somehow reboot America’s trading relationships. Executives will be watching closely who he chooses for the US Trade Representative position, which has been occupied by a hawkish figure under Trump.
Biden seems more than willing to re-engage and less adversarial than his predecessor: “America is back. We’re going to be back in the game. It’s not America alone,” he reportedly told European leaders who called to congratulate him on his election win. But it will not be easy for the new president to perform global trade backflips as urgently as they are needed. And more to the point, he may not be inclined to do them at all.
Though there is hope that a more rational negotiating partner in the White House might work to unwind some of the trade hostilities America is embroiled in from Europe to China, when it comes to the latter, there is no evidence that Biden will be motivated to take a soft approach on his country’s most significant economic and technological rival.
For many multinational fashion brands, the biggest threat they face is a further breakdown between the US and China, the latter having sent $451.7 billion worth of goods to the former in 2019. Nike alone earned more than $6 billion in the Greater China market in its last fiscal year and the market accounts for almost 20 percent of the brand’s global sales, as well as a significant proportion of the goods it produces.
Nike and other US brands will be hoping Biden can thread the needle between taking a sufficiently hard line to protect their interests and fostering friendlier negotiations than Trump did in a way that reduces both friction and trade costs.
Elsewhere, global brands with a retail footprint or supply chain straddling the UK and the European Union are watching nervously as the two parties hammer out new trade rules for a post-Brexit world. While there has been much speculation this week about a potential breakthrough in the deadlock, experts say there are several major sticking points left to resolve and predict that negotiations will probably go down to the wire.
Deal or no deal, the Brexit transition period ends with the dawn of 2021, so fashion companies with links across the English Channel are understandably anxious. Those moving inventory to stores across the border will of course be impacted if a deal is not struck but it’s not just the prospect of red tape and delays worrying those who fear the worst.
Without a new deal, as of January 1, the two sides will see tariffs introduced on goods that until this point have been tax-free. Based on export figures from 2018 it is estimated that a no-deal default switch to World Trade Organisation (WTO) rules would cost the British fashion industry £850 to 900 million ($1.12 to $1.19 billion).
UK retailers, including Harvey Nichols and Marks & Spencer, have responded by upping their share of bonded warehouse space (storing imports in a bonded facility means they can delay paying customs charges until the goods are sold), but this can only limit financial impact up to a point.
Whatever the outcome of these eleventh-hour negotiations and whatever side Britons were on in the Brexit debate, everyone will be relieved in six weeks’ time when years of uncertainty are finally over. That can’t come soon enough for the UK, which needs to turn its attention to accelerating other international trade deals, and the EU, which has its own priorities to get on with.
For a global industry still in the midst of a pandemic and economic crisis, any ceasefire in the global trade wars that businesses endured in recent years has to be considered progress. Indeed, however fleeting, anything that quells the tensions and volatility that characterised the last decade will be seen as a welcome relief.
THE NEWS IN BRIEF
FASHION, BUSINESS AND THE ECONOMY
Arcadia denies report that it’s on brink of bankruptcy. The Topshop-owner hit back against a Sunday Times report that it is drawing up plans to enter administration. Sky News previously reported the group was seeking £30 million in loans to help keep the business afloat as England’s second lockdown delivers another blow to the ailing high street retail empire.
International Woolmark Prize announces 2021 finalists. The United Kingdom’s Bethany Williams and Matty Bovan, France’s Casablanca, Nigeria’s Kenneth Ize, Canada’s Lecavalier and South Africa’s Thebe Magugu will compete for AU$200,000 (about $146,000) and an opportunity to be sold at retailers around the world, with the winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation receiving AU$100,000. They beat out more than 380 applicants in 55 countries for the opportunity.
Report: Indian factory workers supplying for Ralph Lauren allege exploitation. The factory forced women to stay overnight and work additional hours without notice, the BBC reported, citing anonymous workers who described a “culture of fear” at the plant.
Macy’s reports 20 percent drop in comparable sales. It said it expects that to continue into the fall season, signalling a tough holiday season for the coronavirus-battered department store chain. The retailer’s shares fell three percent in premarket trading. Its stock has lost nearly half its value in a tumultuous year in which it has had to lay off thousands of workers.
L Brands reports better-than-expected quarterly sales. Comparable sales at Bath & Body Works surged 56 percent in the third quarter, while they rose four percent at Victoria’s Secret. The company reported a net income of $330.6 million, or $1.17 per share, compared with a loss of $252 million, or 91 cents per share, a year earlier, when it recorded some impairment charges.
Report: Manish Arora in liquidation. The Indian label has been suffering from financial troubles for years and is now facing legal action from vendors and employees alleging unpaid wages, according to a report by GFN.
JD.com announces 29 percent boost in third-quarter revenue. China’s second-largest e-commerce player continues to benefit as shoppers move online in the world’s biggest market for fashion and luxury. Its sales for the quarter ended September 30 reached 174.21 billion yuan ($26.5 billion), beating analysts’ expectations of 170.5 billion yuan. The company’s stock has more than doubled in 2020.
De Beers diamond demand recovers from Covid-19 hit. Sales of rough diamonds at De Beers rose more than 12 percent in the latest sales cycle, its parent Anglo American said on Wednesday, as demand improves on the back of easing Covid-19 restrictions and ahead of the December festive season. Sales of $450 million in the ninth sales cycle, or between November 2 and November 16, were higher than the $400 million a year earlier.
Tomorrow acquires majority stake in London concept store Machine-A. The shop’s founder Stavros Karelis will stay on as buying director, while Tomorrow’s Alessandra Rossi will take over as chief executive to revamp its direct-to-consumer business and long-term growth strategy. Machine-A currently operates its e-commerce business through a partnership with Showstudio, the content agency founded by photographer Nick Knight.
Target’s sales soar ahead of crucial holiday shopping period. Comparable sales including e-commerce, a critical gauge of success for retailers, jumped 20.7 percent from a year earlier, the retailer said Wednesday in a statement. That’s almost double the estimate of 11.6 percent growth from Consensus Metrix, although down from 24.3 percent in the second quarter. Profit and gross margin also exceeded estimates.
China’s retail sales grow, Japan’s GDP bounces back. Retail sales in China rose 4.3 percent year-on-year in October, according to the country’s National Bureau of Statistics. Though this beat the previous month’s rise of 3.3 percent, analysts had been hoping for more of a bump in a month that included the nine-day national ‘Golden Week’ public holiday period.
Global Fashion Group raises $140 million. The fashion e-tailer will invest the new round of financing to accelerate growth and expand its marketplace and fashion services business. It will also invest in technology to streamline its e-commerce business, currently popular in emerging markets, on a global scale.
British retailers Peacocks and Jaeger enter administration. Peacocks, based in Cardiff, Wales, operates 423 stores with 4,369 staff and London-based Jaeger has 76 stores and employs 347, putting 4,716 jobs at risk in total. Their administration followed the failure of efforts by management to secure a solvent sale of both businesses. Both retailers are part of privately-owned EWP Group.
THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY
C-Beauty Giant Yatsen Raises $617m in IPO. Chinese cosmetics giant Yatsen Holding Ltd rose 75 percent in its trading debut, raising $617 million in a US initial public offering. The company sold 58.75 million American depositary shares at $10.50 each. The shares closed at $18.40 on Thursday in New York, giving the company a market value of $7.82 billion.
Kohl’s wants to expand its beauty business. The retailer sees beauty as a growth driver and plans to triple its sales in the category. Kohl’s is trying out what it calls “Wellness Markets” in 50 stores to help shoppers more easily find personal care products and help it stand out from competitors like Target, which last month struck a deal with Ulta Beauty.
Huda Beauty is the most in-demand beauty line online. According to the Cosmetify Index, Huda Beauty has over 53 million combined social media followers, followed by Kylie Cosmetics and MAC Cosmetics. Next up were beauty brands like Anastasia Beverly Hills, NYX Professional Makeup and Fenty Beauty.
Vogue China editor Angelica Cheung to step down. After 16 years as editor-in-chief of Vogue China, Angelica Cheung will resign from the post on December 8. A letter was reportedly sent to staff at Condé Nast China to announce the move, which also said there were no replacement candidates ready to be confirmed yet.
GQ’s Nikki Ogunnaike named Harper’s Bazaar digital director. The appointment marks a return for Ogunnaike to Hearst, where she previously worked for Elle’s digital team in multiple positions, rising to the title of style director before leaving for GQ one year ago. In her role, Ogunnaike will work closely with Samira Nasr, Hearst said in a statement, in contrast to the completely separate print and digital operations under Nasr’s predecessor Glenda Bailey.
Alber Elbaz’s AZ factory set to launch in January. The project, a partnership with Swiss conglomerate Richemont, announced its new name and logo today, abandoning the working title AZFashion. It will mark the designer’s return to fashion since his blockbuster tenure at Lanvin ended in 2015.
PVH hires Nike’s Jessica Lomax as Calvin Klein global head of design. The brand began its search for a global head of design in late 2018 after Raf Simons left his role as chief creative officer months before his three-year contract was up. Lomax joins Calvin Klein from Nike, where she is currently senior creative director, women’s sportswear apparel.
MEDIA AND TECHNOLOGY
A new online platform celebrates black creative talent. Blacktag is a new interactive digital platform showcasing work by Black creatives with the aim of uplifting Black voices and connecting emerging talent with brands. Founded by Akin Adebowale, a multidisciplinary artist who has worked with Drake and Kanye West, and Ousman Sahko, a filmmaker and Google Creative Lab alum, Blacktag has already secured a $3.75 million seed round led by venture capital firms Connect Ventures and New Enterprise Associates.
Paris Fashion Week says autumn shows brought in 135 million views on YouTube. The value of press and social media coverage for Paris’s spring-summer ’21 womenswear week declined by roughly one third versus the prior year’s season, according to Launchmetrics estimates released Thursday by Paris fashion chamber FHCM. That’s still a relatively strong performance according to the popular metric, taking into account that most international journalists, influencers, and celebrity spokespeople did not attend due to the pandemic.
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Here Are Trailblazing Black Leaders in Footwear and Fashion Who Changed the Game in 2020
At a critical moment in the battle for racial equality, FN highlights influential Black leaders who led bold protests, engineered game-changing initiatives and fought tirelessly for social justice reform in 2020. (The below names are in alphabetical order. To see a concurrent list of fashion coalitions that pushed for equality in 2020, click here.)
SNEAKER STRATEGIST & DESIGNER
You would be hard pressed to find someone with a voice as strong as Jazerai Allen-Lord. Throughout the year, the outspoken sneaker enthusiast — who co-founded the True to Size brand strategy agency that emphasizes amplifying marginalized voices — used her social media platforms to share the stories of Black men and women within the industry. Additionally, she penned articles and columns for more mainstream outlets addressing the pressing issues of today from both an industry and a consumer perspective. One of her most recent works is “Planting the S.E.E.D. for the Next Generation” — specifically the educational program’s efforts geared toward Black women who are interested in design — which can be read on the Adidas Confirmed app.
She might be best known for curating the dazzling fashions seen on Beyoncé and her work on “Black Is King.” But Akers is using her powerful position in fashion to help Black-owned brands in fashion and beauty gain more visibility. In a short time, her “Black Owned Everything” Instagram account has amassed 189,000 followers.
DIRECTOR OF APPAREL OPERATIONS, NEW BALANCE
With more than a decade at New Balance under her belt, Blunt has recently taken her influence at the brand far beyond apparel operations: This year, she led a team of designers and creatives to launch New Balance’s first-ever Black History Month capsule collection. In addition to lending her voice to FN’s Diversity & Inclusion webinar, “Race Revolution: Apologies & Action,” this summer, Blunt plays a critical role in New Balance’s D&I leadership task force, helping the brand shape its strategy around inclusion and equality at all levels.
ASSISTANT APPAREL DESIGNER, ADIDAS
Bond’s courageous decision to put a name and face to diversity and inclusion challenges at Adidas amplified the reality and extent of Black employees’ frustration with the brand, and likely was a critical element in fostering transformation. Bond, in June, wrote an open letter challenging Adidas’ leadership to execute tangible changes in the treatment and upliftment of Black staffers: “I can no longer stand for Adidas’ consistent complacency in taking active steps against a racist work environment. This is not business as usual,” she wrote. For several weeks, Bond led daily protests in front of the company’s Portland, Ore., HQ and, even after the company released heightened D&I objectives in June, she persisted in her efforts for ongoing accountability, protesting into August.
WASHINGTON MYSTICS STAR; CONVERSE ATHLETE
In 2019, Natasha Cloud won a WNBA title with the Washington Mystics. In 2020, she didn’t step foot on the court. The baller — who inked a deal with Converse at the beginning of June — revealed toward the end of the month that she would forgo the 2020 WNBA season to focus on social justice reform.
PRESIDENT, COUNCIL OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA (CFDA)
After receiving some blowback for not doing enough around equality in fashion, CFDA made
a big move when it named CaSandra Diggs as president. She is the first woman and first person of color named to the role since the organization was founded in 1962. With the U.S. fashion industry at a critical crossroads, Diggs will help define the future at a time when reinvention and diversity is key.
FOUNDER, PENSOLE FOOTWEAR DESIGN ACADEMY
Edwards’ far-reaching efforts to build and develop a pipeline for minorities in the footwear business have been instrumental in reshaping the lives of thousands of Black youth who may have otherwise lacked avenues for career advancement. He launched Pensole in 2010 and has steered the design academy to fruitful partnerships with New Balance, Puma, Under Armour and Vibram. The 30-year industry veteran — one of only six designers to ever design an Air Jordan sneaker — in 2019 collaborated with the Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America to launch the first-ever African American Footwear Forum, aimed at amplifying the voices and unity of Black professionals in footwear. He is a foremost voice in industry conversations centered on the inclusion and advancement of Black people in footwear and has worked with Nike, Timberland, Vans, The North Face, Allbirds, Adidas and Foot Locker to help facilitate their investments in the Black community.
DESIGNER & CREATIVE CONSULTANT
The creative challenged Nike Inc. in June over its financial commitments to the Black community, calling it “a very expensive band- aid,” and demanded more transparency of its inner workings. Emory went a step further by withholding his collab with Nike-backed Converse until the company’s shortcomings were addressed. Four months later, Emory — through his Denim Tears imprint — delivered the Chuck 70 collaboration, a silhouette dressed in the African American flag, with an accompanying commitment from Converse to encourage the Black community to vote.
VP OF STRATEGY, CORPORATE DEVELOPMENT & STRATEGIC INVESTMENTS, FOOT LOCKER
Eight-year Foot Locker exec Vladimir Estiverne wears many hats in his role with the retail giant. However, this year, the company tasked him with a project it revealed in June: looking after its five-year, $200 million investment to support the Black community through economic development and education initiatives. Also, Estiverne serves on Foot Locker’s Blacks United in Leadership and Development employee resource group and is a steering committee member of the “social justice communication lab,” The Opportunity Agenda.
Throughout this tumultuous year, Treis Hill has used his social media platforms to champion the efforts of others who are fighting racial injustice. Most recently, he celebrated Tremaine Emory and his African American flag-bearing Converse Chuck 70 collab. However, Hill and Alife have also delivered several social justice efforts of their own. At the start of the year, Alife released hoodies in its signature gray bearing the names of pivotal figures in African American history to much fanfare. However, as violence against Black men and women dominated headlines, its celebratory efforts quickly turned into a fight against racial injustice. That same hoodie would arrive in May, this time with the name of a Black man who was killed this year: Ahmaud Arbery. Since then, Alife has ramped up its social justice efforts, including the launch of “Stuy Talks” in July, a series of conversations on social injustice, police violence and racism in conjunction with Brooklyn Scholar Athletes and Brooklyn Combine.
FOUNDER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR, BROTHER VELLIES; FOUNDER, 15% PERCENT PLEDGE
While many fashion players spoke out against racism and inequality, Aurora James took definitive action when she launched The 15% Pledge. The entrepreneur and designer, who has consistently worked to support female and minority talents, called on retailers to pledge 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses. (Black people represent about 15% of the population in the U.S.) In addition to bringing much-needed attention to the lack of Black representation at retail, the move has fueled immediate and meaningful change at a time when it’s needed most. Macy’s, Sephora, Rent the Runway and West Elm are among the major names who have already committed, and a determined James is keeping the pressure on.
LOS ANGELES LAKERS FORWARD; NIKE ATHLETE
Early 2020 was marred by the tragic death
of Los Angeles Lakers legend Kobe Bryant; however, LeBron James wrapped the 2019-20 NBA season on a high note, earning yet another championship for the storied franchise. At the same time, he made just as many headlines for activism efforts as game action. His most recent initiative is “More Than a Vote,” an organization geared toward fighting racist voter suppression. His efforts led to a partnership with the Los Angeles Dodgers to turn Dodger Stadium into a polling station for the upcoming presidential election and the recruitment of 10,000 poll workers in “vulnerable Black communities.”
RAP STAR; ENTREPRENEUR
The rap megastar with ties to Puma, who has become more of an activist in recent years, ramped up his efforts in 2020. For instance, the artist (born Shawn Carter) was instrumental in getting the NFL in February to donate $100 million to criminal justice reform. Also, his Reform Alliance organization worked to get California Gov. Gavin Newsom to sign AB 1950 into law, which will limit probation sentences in the state to no more than one year for misdemeanors and two years for felonies.
OWNER, CHARLOTTE HORNETS; NASCAR TEAM OWNER
The spotlight has been on NBA icon Michael Jordan throughout much of the coronavirus pandemic, thanks to his acclaimed “The Last Dance” docuseries, several high-profile sneaker releases and a new signature shoe, the Air Jordan 35. However, the retired athlete’s most notable moment came in early June when he, along with his Jordan Brand imprint, revealed a $100 million donation over the next 10 years to racial equality organizations. In July, the company revealed the first nonprofits that would receive donations: NAACP Legal Defense and Educational Fund Inc., Formerly Incarcerated & Convicted People and Families Movement and Black Voters Matter.
FOUNDER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR, PYER MOSS; VP OF CREATIVE DIRECTION, REEBOK
When the pandemic hit New York hard, Jean- Raymond immediately stepped up — turning his headquarters into a PPE collection site and setting up a $100,000 fund to help minority- and women-owned businesses stay afloat. A few months later, he teamed with French luxury powerhouse Kering to launch the “Your Friends in New York” platform to support rising talent and empower the next generation of entrepreneurs. All of that work is garnering major attention across the industry. After taking home FN’s Person of the Year award in 2019, Jean-Raymond — who was promoted to VP of creative direction at Reebok in September — racked up more big honors this year, as CFDA’s menswear designer of the year and Harlem’s Fashion Row designer of the year.
The former NFL quarterback hasn’t taken a snap under center for years, and yet Kaepernick is more discussed now than ever. The athlete- turned-activist continued his fight against racial injustice in 2020, most notably through a partnership between his Kaepernick Publishing and the Medium publication Level that will yield 30 essays and conversations over four weeks. The quarterback will focus on pressing issues, including the divisive topic of abolishing the police and prisons.
NORTH AMERICA VP OF MARKETING, FOOT LOCKER
The executive’s work to help Black men and women advance in the footwear industry knows no bounds. Last year, Richard McLeod helped launch Foot Locker’s No 1 Way Design Program, in conjunction with Pensole Footwear Design Academy, to put the spotlight on design hopefuls from Historically Black Colleges and Universities. This year, his efforts were internal, landing a spot on the Foot Locker Diversity & Inclusion Council. McLeod’s efforts within D&I are far from new and have always been a focus. “I want to be known for driving change, as someone who wasn’t afraid to take risks, learn and try something new,” the exec said in an OpEd published by FN in October 2019. “I have a love for the people I work with and want to ensure under my leadership [that] I am known for growing and developing each and every one of them.”
WTA TENNIS STAR; NIKE ATHLETE
The young star is determined to be a champion on and off the court. The US Open winner used her platform to make a huge statement during the 2020 tournament by wearing seven different face masks with the name of Black victims of police brutality and racial injustice. A week earlier, Osaka sat out the semifinals of another tournament to protest the shooting of Jacob Blake, who was shot by police in Kenosha, Wis.
CHIEF DIVERSITY OFFICER, MACY’S INC.
Prior to the racial uprising of 2020, Macy’s Inc. was carving out its place as an industry leader in diversity and inclusion strategy. Outler is the woman at the center of the department store’s aggressive plan, which challenges itself and the broader retail sector to move the needle on equality. Her “five-part approach” includes a requirement for 50% representation of gender/ gender identity, ethnicity, age, size and disabled persons in Macy’s advertising by 2020; 30% ethnic diversity at the senior director level and above by 2025; and diverse supplier spend of at least 5% by 2021. Last week, in a huge move, Macy’s became the biggest retailer to sign Aurora James’ 15% Pledge.
ACTOR, SINGER & ACTIVIST
When Billy Porter talks, people listen. The ardent activist worked tirelessly to get out the vote for Joe Biden and Kamala Harris. Bold and outspoken, Porter educated his millions of followers about the significant challenges that members of the Black and LGBTQ+ communities face in today’s America, from police brutality to voter suppression.
VP OF GLOBAL FOOTWEAR, CONVERSE
Converse is one of the only major sneaker brands with a Black CEO at the helm. However, G. Scott Uzzell isn’t the lone powerful Black leader on staff. Brandis Russell, its VP of global footwear who has been the voice of several of Converse’s biggest product initiatives, is one of its strongest voices — so much so that the impact she has had on the company culture led her to be named to the Nike Inc. D&I Acceleration Task Force in June.
PRESIDENT & CEO, CONVERSE
Converse CEO G. Scott Uzzell is one of the few Black executives leading a high-profile footwear company — and hasn’t shied away from using his position to create change. “I received a phone call from a senior person at Nike a couple days after the passing of George Floyd, and the phone call was that ‘You’re black and you’re a CEO and today they should intersect. And Scott, you’ll make us all better by doing that because of your unique experiences, because there’s not many of you,’” Uzzell recalled. After some thought, he realized not all of his responsibilities will be found on an earnings statement. “There’s this trail that I’ve walked throughout my career, that many of my peers have not walked, and I can bring unique thought,” Uzzell said.
NASCAR CUP SERIES DRIVER
Inking a deal with Columbia Sportswear Co. and being named the driver for Michael Jordan’s newly formed NASCAR team were huge moments in 2020 for Bubba Wallace — but they pale in comparison to what defined his year. In June, a door pull rope tied in the shape of a noose was found in his garage stall at Talladega Superspeedway in Alabama, which led to an FBI investigation that revealed he was not the target of a hate crime. However, Wallace became a central figure in the modern civil rights movement, using his social media platforms to promote togetherness.
OWNER, THE WHITAKER GROUP (SOCIAL STATUS, A MA MANIERE, A.P.B. & PROSPER)
The owner of several retail banners used his platforms to offer services aside from products throughout the year. Most notably, Whitner and Social Status delivered the “Free Game” educational series via the community-focused BeSOCIAL programming online. However, the most profound moment came in October, when then-Vice Presidential candidate Kamala Harris visited the Charlotte, N.C., location of Social Status to engage Whitner in a conversation in front of press about voting and the importance of positive energy.
CO-FOUNDER & HOST, CLAIMA STORIES
Williams has taken the modern-day mantra “reach back and pull forward” to heart over the course of his career. In 2019, the Baton Rouge, La., native — who has spent time working in marketing and product creation at sportswear giants including Adidas — launched professional development podcast “Claima Stories.” The name stands for “claim a seat at the table” and invites leaders from footwear and adjacent industries to share their accomplishments and offer advice on how minorities can break in or advance in their careers. Williams early this year landed his dream job in Nike’s entertainment marketing department, but stepped away in August, amid national unrest over racial injustice, to dedicate all of his efforts to helping Black and Brown people discover a path to professional success.
PPRESIDENT, JORDAN BRAND
Williams leads the vision, strategy and growth of the billion-dollar Jordan Brand globally. Since taking the helm early last year, he has championed the brand’s community efforts, announcing in July a joint commitment with Michael Jordan for $100 million over 10 years to fight systemic racism. Initial donations were made to the Legal Defense Fund, FICPFM and Black Voters Matter, but the brand has also introduced educational content that highlights key issues facing the Black community. In May, Craig wrote a powerful editorial about the Jordan Wings program, noting the brand’s ongoing commitment to level the playing field for kids who need it, with scholarships that remove barriers to higher education.
GLOBAL VP & GM OF BASKETBALL, ADIDAS
As Adidas faced a pivotal moment in its diversity and inclusion journey this year, Wise was one of the leadership voices active in the movement toward meaningful change. His insights helped inform and build out the brand’s United Against Racism (UAR) pledge, which in June became arguably the most powerful statement of Adidas’ commitment to progress. Now, as co-chair and executive sponsor of the brand’s U.S. United Against Racism Accountability Council, he works closely with Adidas’ North American president, Zion Armstrong, to stem race issues. To ensure the company’s efforts reach external communities, Wise helped launch Honoring Black Excellence, an initiative to engage with the Black community via brand-sponsored activations. He is also a member of Adidas’ Global Committee to Accelerate Inclusion and Equality.
This Tech Executive’s WFH Outfits Go Beyond the Hoodie
In a bi-weekly series, we’re asking female executives, founders, CEOs—basically, boss ladies—about their “power suit” a.k.a. the outfit they wear every day for easy dressing to conquer whatever the job throws at them.
When you get the chance to speak to powerful leaders in their fields, you use the opportunity to learn all you can from them—how they got to where they are, their goals and values, even why they make the wardrobe choices they do. That’s precisely what I did when I hopped on a call with Squarespace’s chief marketing officer Kinjil Mathur. Mathur has been with the company for almost four years, overseeing the business’s growth strategy. “What that boils down to is: How do we help as many people as we can to get our tools into their hands and help them become successful?” she says. “We don’t stop at just getting an ad in front of someone and buy/convert. We want to nurture and grow the business, to stay with the entrepreneurs through their whole journeys.”
Squarespace is a platform that helps people create their own websites via easy-to-use templates and other software services for brands. Mathur says that the company empowers millions of individuals to build their personal brands and make their mark on the world.
This message was especially important during the pandemic, when, she notes, many people—small business owners, the newly jobless who wanted to market out a side hustle—were in need of the platform’s services, whether that be selling merchandise or scheduling appointments via a website.
Mathur’s passion for tech started at an early age, influenced by her parents. (Her dad was an engineer while her mother was in medicine.) She got into computer programming in high school and, post-college, found herself working as a technology risk consultant. However, she found that path a bit too technical and soon an opportunity to join Neiman Marcus came knocking. There, she would dive head first into the space between data and marketing strategy, what Mathur calls the start of her actual career.
“I went into Neiman Marcus, where it was super intimidating,” she recalls. “I had the task of [helping a traditional company] use consumer data to build an online business. That kick-started my understanding of how to apply statistical modeling and data analytics to lead marketing and business strategy.”
She went on to spend a long stint in fashion media, adding names like Saks Fifth Avenue and Conde Nast to her resume. She then took all the knowledge she had gathered and finally planted her roots back in tech again at Foursquare (she was its CMO from 2014 to 2017) and now Squarespace.
Having experienced so many different industries, Mathur says that her one piece of advice for young women (and men) who want to get into tech is to keep an open mind about their careers. “Don’t ever think there is a perfect career path for you because that’s what you’ve been told you should be. The best [job], even in my own [career], is when I am open to anything. I am industry agnostic. I just want to go where I think the challenge is super interesting and the problem I’m going to solve is what I want to spend my time on,” she says.
She advises aspiring techies to talk to people, absorb content about the different roles they’re interested in, and figure out what is a good match to their skill set instead of being completely set on something specific. Finally, if anyone is really, truly stuck, you can just slide into Mathur’s DMs—she’s always happy to chat with those seeking advice.
This desire to share her experiences and give back extends to the committees she’s part of. Mathur is a member of the CFDA Fashion Trust and a member of NYCxDesign, where she helps up-and-coming design folks think about what is the business of fashion or business of design, how to build a brand, and how to get people to pay attention to it.
Ahead, Mathur chats candidly about what she wears to work (at home) as an executive and what her personal style is like. (Hint: This tech powerhouse’s style is more in line with the who’s who of fashion you follow than Mark Zuckerberg.)
“It definitely has changed because I have a little baby boy, Ceyone; he’s a year-and-a-half and I’m now at home with him in the mornings. We’re all playing a lot of different roles at home: I’m playing a full-time Squarespace exec and a full-time mom—you don’t get to turn it off even if you have help. I’m in his space, he’s my coworker. My morning routine is when I play that first role, I am a mom from the minute I wake up to when I take my first meeting.
I wake up every day at 6:30 a.m.—Ceyone’s my alarm clock. We both have breakfast together, and he’s kind of like me: We’re the brightest and most alert in the morning. I launch straight into reading sessions with him, so we probably crunch through five or six books. The saying is ‘to be a good human is life’s work’ and I believe that. We’re reading books about what it is to be a kind human. We’re going through the Pantone colors, we’re looking at shapes and architecture, we’re reading books all about diversity and inclusion. I’m trying to take him through everything I want him to experience all that he’s not experiencing in the world right now.”
Her Getting Dressed Strategy
“Pre-pandemic, I would think about what I was going to do that day and dress for it. For example, if I had a board meeting, if I was going to events after work, if I was doing a creative brainstorm or strategy sessions. My style has always been in service of whatever agenda I had for that day. I don’t think that’s changed [for COVID], it’s just a different type of agenda. Now, truthfully, I am not moving a lot, so comfort is first and foremost. Before it was about cuts and structure and now it’s texture. I want soft, huggable materials where I can pick my son up and, if he’s getting something on my shoulder or snuggling in, it’s all good.
There are moments when I’m still thinking through my agenda and whether I need to make a statement. Statements are different now—you don’t get the whole look, you get it from the chest up. I have a no-shoes-in-the-home rule, so I don’t even wear shoes anymore. That’s a big part of a whole look that’s out the door. Now I’ve been wearing written statements when I really want to make a statement. All through [the] Black Lives Matter [protests this summer], from an executive stand point, it was really important we were declarative and prioritized efforts in making space to have the conversations we needed to have, [so] I really turned to wearing my Lingua Franca sweater that says ‘give a damn.’ That was my power piece and it was a literal statement. It was worn very purposefully. I still think about that when it comes to dressing: Who am I going to be in front of and what am I trying to say?
[When the pandemic started], my husband and I never fled New York City, we stayed here and hunkered down. We felt like it was important to support the businesses around us and we were buying merchandise. The Grand Banks group is a Squarespace customer and are so awesome, and they were struggling. They launched all this new merchandise so I bought sweatshirts from them to support, and I wore those every time I was meeting with the team and [thinking about] what our COVID relief plan was.”
Her Work-From-Home Uniform
“I am a big Isabel Marant fan, always have been. What the beautiful thing is, everybody’s come out with their own versions of sweatshirts or sweatpants. Marant has these wonderful sweatshirts and over-exaggerated styles. I have these really baggy paper bag pants from her and these sweaters that I wear a lot. Aimé Leon Dore has these amazing sweatshirt and sweatpants combos. They’re thick and fitted, so I still feel put together. I have the all-black and all-cream, which I alternate between.
I’m in meetings all day. I keep my yoga mat next to me, and if I can get a stretch session in for 15 minutes in-between meetings, I’ll try to do that, so I’m not opposed to wearing fitness outfits. I switch between Nike gear and Alo Yoga. Another brand called Twenty Montreal is a go-to for me, too, because they have biker shorts, sweats, blouson sleeves, and crop tops so you can wear high-waisted leggings with stretch. I’ve worn two pairs of jeans and they’re both these Isabel Marant—super baggy and comfortable ones—but most of the time I am in elastic-waist pants, and it feels really good.
I think it’s important to find those moments to still dress up. Like if I happen to step out for dinner, I’ll use that as an opportunity to dress up. Otherwise, it’s more about the practicality when you’re at home. I try to wear jewelry when I can because you only have so much real estate to make a statement. I love Soko, which is this brand that finds female artisans in Africa and micro-finances their businesses.
I never have a bag anymore because I am always in pants. If I leave the house, I put my wallet in the back pocket and keys in the front pocket. Before, I was using this canvas Saint Laurent fit-everything tote. I love Cuyana bags, too, for work. They’re structured, not labelled, and perfect for laptops or when I was carrying all kinds of baby, new mom-related items.”
The Words That Describe Her Power Outfit
“This year, it’s my ‘give a damn’ sweatshirt. You really had to be a leader that wanted to have those tough conversations [this year], and come from a place of vulnerability and that takes a lot of empathy. It starts with giving a damn. That was the sweatshirt that I wore a lot and those three words have come to mean something [more] than when I originally bought it.”
“This year, the thing that stuck most with me is the line ‘you may be too much for some people. Those are not your people.’ I love that so much because with everything we’ve had going on—from social movements to major conversations around the elections—you can always get ‘you’re too intense, you’re too vocal, you’re too passionate, you’re too emotional, you’re too idealistic, you’re too realistic.’ I am over the toos. If you really want to have a sense of belonging, you have to be true to who you are, and I feel that more this year.”
Shop some of favorite Mathur’s favorite brands, below.
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The Black Friday Fashion Sales Are Here And They’re SO Good
We’ve had plenty of deal-hunting practice this fall, from a rescheduled Prime Day to a better-than-ever Singles Day. Meaning, now, we’re perfectly primed for the main event that sale-savants bide their time for all year long: Black Friday (ever heard of her?). For many, the day after Thanksgiving is spent sleeping off a mashed-potato hangover; for others, it’s the annual moment of truth in which all of the season’s gift-shopping goes down. While some may seek markdowns on big-ticket home buys or enviable beauty bundles, this page is specifically reserved for scoring wearable duds on the cheap.For the fashion crowd, we crafted this roundup of every single style sale happening around the World Wide Web. We’ve been monitoring the fashion deals for weeks, and now that November 27 is here, the discounts are in full swing — and they’re spectacular. Whether it’s a too-good-to-be-real discount on a dreamy cashmere sweater or an incredibly sweet deal on comfy-chic ankle boots, we sussed it out for your holiday shopping pleasure ahead. Click through to find the best of Black Friday’s slashed-price fashion — and bookmark this story for updates as the weekend goes on.At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.AnthropologieDates: Nov. 24 – 30Sale: 30% off sitewide Promo Code: Discount applied at checkoutAmadi Alma Cozy Cardigan, $, available at AnthropologieDagne DoverDates: Now – Dec. 2Sale: 20% off sitewidePromo Code: SHINEBRIGHTDagne Dover Ace Fanny Pack, $, available at Dagne DoverLululemonDates: Nov. 23 – ?Sale: Black Friday specials sitewidePromo Code: Nonelululemon Free To Be Serene Bra, Light Support, C/D Cup, $, available at lululemonNordstromDates: Now – Dec. 1Sale: Cyber week deals, up to 50% off select items sitewidePromo Code: NoneBorn Elaine Chelsea Boot, $, available at NordstromEtsyDates: Nov. 23 – Dec. 2Sale: Participating sellers offering up to 60% offPromo Code: NoneGrace Personalized “Mama” Script Necklace, $, available at EtsyEverlaneDates: Nov. 27 – 30Sale: 20-40% off select stylesPromo Code: NoneEverlane The Alpaca Sweater Tee, $, available at EverlaneGirlfriend CollectiveDates: Nov. 24 – 30Sale: 30% off sitewide, up to 50% off leggingsPromo Code: Discount applied at checkoutGirlfriend Collective Crop Puffer, $, available at Girlfriend CollectivePactDates: Nov. 24 – 29Sale: Up to 45% off select productsPromo Code: NonePACT Split Hem Lounge Pants, $, available at PACTCole HaanDates: Now – Limited timeSale: Up to 50% off almost everything, plus an extra 10% off your order with code THEBESTPromo Code: NoneCole Haan Grand Crosscourt Flatform Lace-Up Sneaker, $, available at Cole HaanRicher PoorerDates: Now – Nov. 30Sale: 30% off sitewidePromo Code: Discount applied at checkoutRicher Poorer Recycled Fleece Sweatpant, $, available at Richer PoorerUniversal StandardDates: Limited timeSale: 25% off holiday exclusives, up to 50% off stylists curated outfit setsPromo Code: HOLIDAY25Universal Standard The Cold Front Outfit, $, available at Universal StandardUrban OutfittersDates: Nov. 25 – 28Sale: Buy one, get one 50% offPromo Code: NoneUrban Outfitters Jonna Hiker Boot, $, available at Urban OutfittersUrban OutfittersDates: Nov. 29 – 30Sale: $10 off orders worth $50+, $50 off orders worth $150+, $75 off orders worth $200+, or 25% off your entire purchasePromo Code: NoneH&MDates: Now – Nov. 27Sale: 30% off sitewidePromo Code: NoneH&M Rib-knit Cardigan, $, available at H&MThe North FaceDates: Now – Nov. 30Sale: Up to 50% off select stylesPromo Code: NoneThe North Face Thermoball Eco Jacket, $, available at The North FaceMadewellDates: Nov. 24 – 29Sale: Up to 50% offPromo Code: VERYMERRYMadewell Eldridge Zip Coat, $, available at Madewell& Other StoriesDates: Now – Nov. 27Sale: 25% off sitewide Promo Code: Discount applied at checkout& Other Stories Statement Collar Knit Cardigan, $, available at & Other StoriesUniqloDates: Nov. 20 – 30Sale: Black Friday deals on down, fleece, and winter essentialsPromo Code: NoneUniqlo Seamless Down Parka, $, available at UniqloAmazonDates: Now – limited timeSale: Black Friday Deals on women’s fashion including up to 50% off Tommy Hilfiger, up to 40% off Adidas, up to 40% off Levi’s, up to 40% off C9 Champion, up to 50% off Calvin Klein, up to 30% off Amazon brands Promo Code: NoneAmerican Apparel Crop Carpenter Jean, $, available at AmazonFree PeopleDates: Nov. 25 – 30Sale: Up to 50% off select items (changes daily)Promo Code: NoneEndless Summer Syd Poplin Midi Dress, $, available at Free PeopleNordstrom RackDates: Now – Nov. 30Sale: Daily Deals: limited-time discounts that change dailyPromo Code: NoneMICHAEL Michael Kors Missy Belted Wool Blend Trench Coat, $, available at Nordstrom RackAdidasDates: Nov. 22 – 28Sale: Up to 50% off select itemsPromo Code: NoneAdidas Ultraboost 20 Sneakers, $, available at AdidasOutdoor VoicesDates: Now – Nov. 30Sale: Up to 70% off sitewidePromo Code: NoneOutdoor Voices Powerhouse Bra, $, available at Outdoor VoicesReformationDates: Nov. 26 – 30Sale: 30% off sitewidePromo Code: NoneReformation Hart Cashmere Sweater, $, available at ReformationShopbopDates: Now – Nov. 24Sale: Five Days of Shopbop: discounts from 25% – 50% on select brands Promo Code: ESSENTIALVince Kalina Shearling Slides, $, available at ShopbopShopbopDates: Now – Nov. 29Sale: 20% off your order of $200+Promo Code: SHOP20Freda Salvador The Ace Lace Up Booties, $, available at ShopbopASOSDates: Now – Limited TimeSale: Up to 50% off select styles, plus 20% off on all orders over $50Promo Code: MOREPLSYAYNew Love Club Daisy Print Oversized Tee, $, available at ASOSZapposDates: Now – Limited timeSale: Up to 50% off daily dealsPromo Code: NoneThe North Face Osito Jacket, $, available at ZapposCOSDates: Nov. 27 – 29Sale: 25% off sitewide when you spend $200 or morePromo Code: NoneCOS Belted Wool-Cashmere Coat, $, available at COSVerishopDates: Nov. 21 – 30Sale: Get 25% off fashion (and 15% off home and beauty) when you spend $100+ Promo Code: HOLIDAYFree People Chloe Leopard Duster, $, available at VerishopEddie BauerDates: Nov. 26 – 30Sale: Up to 50% off your purchasePromo Code: NoneEddie Bauer K-6 Hiking Boot, $, available at Eddie BauerTargetDates: Now – Limited TimeSale: Black Friday deals all month longPromo Code: NoneA New Day Balloon Sleeve Boat Neck Pullover Sweater, $, available at TargetCoach OutletDates: Limited timeSale: 70% off sitewidePromo code: NoneCoach Lewis Shoulder Bag, $, available at Coach OutletReebokDates: Now – Limited timeSale: Up to 50% off select stylesPromo Code: BLACKFRIReebok Club C 85 Sneakers, $, available at ReebokCarbon38Dates: Now – Limited timeSale: 30% off sitewide, plus an additional 30% off Daily DropsPromo Code: THX30Carbon38 French Terry Jogger Pant, $, available at Carbon38L.L. BeanDates: Now – Dec. 1Sale: 15% off your orderPromo Code: THANKS15L.L. Bean 8″ Bean Boots, $, available at L.L. BeanLo & SonsDates: Now – Nov. 29Sale: Up to 70% off select stylesPromo Code: NoneLo & Sons The Rowledge Backpack, $, available at Lo & SonsNet-a-PorterDates: Now – Limited TimeSale: Up to 50% off; plus extra 15% off select itemsPromo Code: NoneUlla Johnson Sylvie pleated printed cotton midi skirt, $, available at Net-A-PorterSSENSEDates: Nov. 23 – limited timeSale: Up to 50% off select itemsPromo Code: NoneEYTYS Black Raven Boots, $, available at SSENSELisa Says GahDates: Nov. 27 – 30Sale: Take 25% off sitewidePromo Code: Discount applied at checkoutLisa Says Gah Bec Bell Bottom Pant, $, available at Lisa Says GahJW PeiDates: Now – Nov. 27Sale: Up to 80% off, plus extra 10% off with code BLACK10Promo Code: BLACK10JW PEI Eva Shoulder Bag, $, available at JW PEIMansur GavrielDates: Now – Nov. 27Sale: 50% off select handbags & shoesPromo Code: NoneMansur Gavriel Mini Mini Bucket Bag, $, available at Mansur GavrielTopshopDates: Now – ?Sale: Up to 50% off almost everythingPromo Code: NoneTopshop Black And White Stripe Square Neck Knitted Top, $, available at TopshopGorjanaDates: Nov. 25 – 30Sale: Spend $125, save $25; spend $200, save $50; spend $350, save $100.Promo Code: NoneGorjana Diamond Parker Link Necklace, $, available at GorjanaWalmartDates: Now – Limited timeSale: Up to 60% off women’s fashionPromo code: NoneComo Blu Shrunken 1/4 Zip Fleece Pullover, $, available at Walmart24SDates: Nov. 23 – Dec. 1Sale: 20% off sitewidePromo Code: BLACKFRIDAY20Ganni Hiking boots, $, available at 24SFarfetchDates: Now – Limited timeSale: Up to 50% off, plus an extra 20% off salePromo Code: NoneOutdoor Voices Core 3/4 Legging, $, available at Outdoor VoicesMarc Jacobs Striped Logo Jumper, $, available at FarfetchThe OutnetDates: Nov. 25 – Dec. 1Sale: Up to 70% off + extra 25% off almost everythingPromo Code: BLACKFRIDAYGanni Color-block merino wool and alpaca-bend sweater, $, available at The OutnetChampionDates: Nov. 22 – Dec. 1 Sale: Up to 50% off sitewide plus buy more, save more (10% off orders $100+; 15% off orders $150+; 20% off orders $200+)Promo Code: NoneChampion Campus Fleece Mock Neck Crew, $, available at ChampionCollina StradaDates: Now – Limited timeSale: 20% off sitewidePromo Code: SALE20Collina Strada Purple Tie Dye Round Hem Hoodie, $, available at Collina StradaBandierDates: Nov. 27 – 30Sale: 30% off sitewide, including rotating additional discounts on select categoriesPromo Code: NoneOn Running Cloudflyer Sneaker, $, available at BandierSaks Fifth AvenueDates: Now – Limited timeSale: Up to 75% off select itemsPromo Code: NoneCult Gaia Banu Plissé Clutch, $, available at Saks Fifth AvenueKES NYCKES will start their Black Friday deals on Tuesday, November 17th – Sunday, November 29th. Deals will consist of shop $100 and take off 25% (code #BLK25) and shop $300 take off 30% (code #BLK30).Please note, Dia&Co’s Black Friday/Cyber Monday sale codes have been changed to the following and reflected in the network.Black Friday Sale will now use code DIABFCyber Monday FLASH Sale will now use code DIACYBERPlease use the updated links below. Thanks!Dia&Co Black Friday Deals! Save 30% Off EVERYTHING at Shop.Dia.com with code DIABF! Offer valid 11/23-11/29.Get HtmlDia&Co Cyber Monday FLASH SALE! Save 50% Off EVERYTHING at Shop.Dia.com with code DIACYBER! Offer valid 11/30 ONLY.Get HtmlCara CaraDates: Now – Limited timeSale: Extra 30% off sitewidePromo Code: THX30Baggu Fanny Pack in Tomato, $, available at Cara CaraGood AmericanDate: Nov. 25 – 29Sale: 25% off sitewide Promo Code: BF25Good American Good Vintage Jean, $, available at Good AmericanStaudDates: Now – Nov. 30Sale: 25% sitewidePromo Code: 25OFFStaud Bean Bag, $, available at StaudPamela LoveDates: Nov. 23 – 30Sale: 30% off all in-stock itemsPromo Code: THANKYOUPamela Love Pendulum Earrings, $, available at Pamela LoveThe LobbyDates: Now – Limited timeSale: 20% off sitewide, plus up to 70% off select stylesPromo Code: NoneHouse Of Sunny Hockney Dress, $, available at The LobbyAna LuisaDates: Now – Limited TimeSale: Buy one, get one 50% offPromo Code: NoneAna Luisa Sia Earring, $, available at Ana LuisaLevi’sSale: 40% off plus free shippingDates: Now – Dec. 1Promo Code: BLUESTREAKLevi’s Ribcage Bootcut Jeans, $, available at Levi’sModa OperandiDates: Now – Limited timeSale: Up to 50% off customer favoritesPromo Code: NoneVEJA Campo Leather Sneakers, $, available at Moda OperandiLulusDates: Nov. 24 – 27Sale: 25% – 90% sitewide plus free domestic shippingPromo Code: FRIYAY25Lulus Warm Thoughts Wrap Sweater, $, available at LulusSaks Off FifthDates: Nov. 21 – 29Sale: Extra 50% off Black Friday discountsPromo Code: NoneNadaam Cashmere V-Neck Pullover Sweater, $, available at Saks OFF 5THRent the RunwayDates: Nov. 24 – 28Sale: 40% off your first 2 months of an 8 or 16 item plan and one-time rentals ($75 order minimum for one-time rentals)Promo Code: NoneRent The Runway Monthly Rental Plan: Up to 8 Items Per Month, $, available at Rent The RunwayRent the RunwayDates: Nov. 29 – Dec. 2Sale: Take 50% off a trial month of our 8 or 16 item plansPromo Code: NoneAroDates: Nov 25 – Dec. 2Sale: 30% off sitewide with code “THANKS20”Promo Code: THANKS20BackcountryDates: Now – Limited timeSale: Up to 60% offPromo Code: NonePatagonia Down Sweater Jacket, $, available at BackcountryLike what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?12 Black Friday Tech Deals To ShopPeep ALL These Deals On Cooking SuppliesWalmart Just Dropped A New Wave Of BIG Black Frida
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